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Lake Como, 2006

WHY GO NOW
Lake Como has had its share of the spotlight recently. A phalanx of television crews drawn to rumors of celebrity weddings will do that. And perhaps you've heard that George Clooney also lives there.

But Lake Como — 30 miles long and 1,350 feet at its deepest — is more than the sum of its celebrity interlopers, reclusive Swiss billionaires and their bashful Italian mistresses. It is also home to some of the most impressive scenery and food in Italy. And thanks to strict laws against development and genetically modified tomatoes, there's little fear of that changing anytime soon.

Except in the town of Como itself. The best thing to do after arriving is to leave. The farther you get from the drop-off point of tour buses, the more charming the scenery becomes. Head up the west side of the lake to the villages of Cernobbio, Laglio and Tremezzo, or venture up the opposite shore to the even quieter towns of Faggetto, Lario and Lezzeno. And if you can't decide, jump on a ferry and go straight up the middle, hopscotching among the towns on both sides.

For some, the promise of Mr. Clooney steering a boat, shirtless, while Mario Testino snaps pictures of him, will be reason enough to jump on a seaplane to Como. For others, it's the villas and gardens in full bloom, blue waters warmed by months of sunshine and menus bursting with perfectly ripened tomatoes.

WHERE TO STAY
Despite the crowds, the town of Como is a convenient place to stay. The Albergo Terminus (Lungolario Trieste, 14, Como; 39-031-329-111; www.hotelterminus-como.it) is a classically styled hotel in the heart of Como, which overlooks the lake from the southernmost tip. The elegant lobby — marble floors, plush couches and giant bowls of apples — gives way to bright, comfortable rooms with great views and modern bathrooms. From 205 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY
Como is famous for water and hills. The best way to appreciate the former is to jump on a ferry, Gestione Navigazione Laghi (39-031-579-211, www.navigazionelaghi.it), from Como, Bellaggio, Varenna or any other larger town (each town has one dock in the center, and fares run from 4 to 20 euros). The crowds are manageable and the views are jaw-dropping. Private lake tours are also available, starting at about 160 euros an hour; among the most reputable is Tasell (Piazza Cavour, Como; 39-031-304-084; www.tasell.com).

To head for the hills, take the Brunate Funicular Railway from Como (39-031-303-608; 4.10 euros) up, up, up to the small village of Brunate, about 2,200 feet above the lake. The surrounding trails offer picture-perfect views of the Alps.

The Como area is to silk what Venice is to glass. Get a crash course in the subject at the Museo Didattico della Seta, or Silk Museum (Via Castelnuovo, 1, Como; 39-031-303-180; www.museosetacomo.com; 8 euros). Who knew that Como supplies 75 percent of Europe's silk?

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT
Despite the celebrity glow, Como doesn't come alive at night. On the contrary, it's the kind of place that favors long dinners, evening strolls and a good night's sleep. The best excuse to stay out is the local gelateria, Caffè Bar Sport (Piazza della Chiesa, 7, Bellagio; 39-031-950-161). Across the water, the prettiest places to sip an after-dinner limoncello or grappa are Harry's Bar (Piazza Risorgimento, 1, Cernobbio; closed Tuesdays) and the terrace at Villa d'Este, both of which offer equally stunning views of the lake and Como's well-dressed crowd.

WHERE TO SHOP
The best place to buy silk is La Tessitura (Viale Roosevelt, 2/A, Como; 39-031-321-666, www.mantero.com), the sleek concept store of Mantero, the famed silk manufacturer. If you haven't heard of Mantero, you probably know its clients - Yves Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton and Chanel, for starters. The store carries gorgeous clothing and soft furnishings - ties, dresses, swimsuits, pillows, blankets - that are made from excess silk. On a smaller scale, Frey (Via Garibaldi, 10, Como; 39-031-267-012) has a good selection of silk accessories, including ties and scarves, at its outlet in the old town.

After silk, the shopping possibilities drop off considerably. The narrow streets of Como's old quarter are home to big name brands (Emporio Armani and Bang & Olufsen), but more interesting are the smaller local shops. One favorite is 2Link Look & Touch (Via Olginati, 8; 39-031-269-486), which carries a selection of funky T-shirts and dresses made by young Italian designers.

YOUR FIRST TRIP OR YOUR 10TH
The 300-year-old Villa Carlotta (Via Regina, 2, Tremezzo; 39-0344-40405; www.villacarlotta.it; admission 7.50 euros) is as impressive as ever. The museum and botanical garden is on 14 acres, with 500 types of plants, flowers and tropical trees. Just up the road is the Villa del Balbianello (Dosso di Lavedo; 39-0344-56110; 5 euros; closed Mondays and Wednesdays), arguably among the most beautiful estates in the country - terraced gardens, miniature palazzos, magnificent stone staircases and manicured lawns that slope to the lake. It was also where George Lucas filmed part of "Star Wars: Episode 2 - Attack of the Clones."

WHERE TO STAY WIRED
There are several Internet cafes in the town of Como, but their hours are subject to the managers' whims. One of the most reliable is Telefonopiù (Via Bianchi Giovini, 10; 39-031-309-253), just off the Piazza Cavour.

HOW TO GET THERE
Lake Como is about 30 miles north of Milan. Delta, Alitalia and Continental fly nonstop from New York to Milan's Malpensa Airport. (A recent Web search turned up round-trip tickets for about $800.) From Milan, the best way to get to the lake is to drive. Hertz, Avis and other major car rental companies are at the airport, and start at about $60 a day. Alternatively, take the Ferrovia Nord Milano train (www.ferrovienord.it). Trains leave for Como every hour from the airport, and the trip takes about 90 minutes. Tickets start at 8.05 euros.

HOW TO GET AROUND
You need a car to explore most of the region. Taxis are also available, but they are costly (about 10 euros to get from one town to the next). But if you just want to sightsee, hop on a ferry. The Gestione Navigazione Laghi ferry links the major villages of Lake Como.

Extract from Travel Intelligence Hotel Review

"Como is often by-passed in favour of the more traditional and prettier little villages that cluster around the two arms of Lake Como. But, being the largest town on the lake, it does have a number of features to recommend it: a cathedral; a Norman church; a busy weekday market and a cable car that carries you up to the stunning village of Brunate on the hill behind Como.

The Albergo Terminus is the best hotel of the bunch. Positioned on the lake and just a stone's throw from the Cathedral, it can be recognised by its pretty garden terrace and manicured lawn."